Understanding Surfing Head Trauma: How Years of Wipeouts Affect Brain Health – Essential Insights

A surfer falling off surfboard

The Long-Term Effects of Surfing-Related Head Trauma: What Every Surfer Should Know.

As an avid surfer who has experienced the frightening reality of head trauma firsthand, I know just how crucial it is to be informed about the risks involved. In this article, I share my personal journey and the vital facts about surfing-related head injuries, including causes, symptoms, and prevention strategies. Whether you're a seasoned surfer or just starting out, understanding these risks is essential for your safety. Join me in learning how to protect yourself in the waves.

For over six decades, I’ve been riding waves, chasing them across the globe. Along the way, I’ve endured my fair share of being punished by wipeouts. My head, face, and body have met unforgiving reefs, leaving their mark. Loose boards have punctured and cut my skin to the bone, creating holes and scars that bear witness to my aquatic escapades. Pounded and pinned down so badly on big waves, I felt threatened that my limbs would tear from my body. I’ve lost count of the moments when I’d resurface, dazed and disoriented, my head spinning like a compass gone haywire.

I’ve fractured seven ribs, sustained a broken leg, and received a concussion diagnosis on four separate occasions. I may have experienced additional concussions, but I didn’t recognize them at the time.

Seven years ago, I experienced my most severe surf-related head injury during a big day at Sunset Beach. Despite feeling dazed and disoriented, I managed to paddle it back to shore. However, later that night, the pain and confusion hit me like an unstoppable locomotive. I found myself in a relentless spin, unable to stop vomiting. My wife promptly rushed me to Kahuku Medical Emergency, where I received a diagnosis of traumatic brain injury (TBI). My brain was swelling up.

As the week unfolded, my condition deteriorated. Eventually, I found myself bedridden for months, unable to walk due to excruciating pain radiating from my neck to my head. I grappled with migraines, positional vertigo, confusion and, to this day I still have ringing in my ears.

My neurologist recommended a daily regimen that included, 9,000 mg/day of Omega 3, 1,000 mg/day of magnesium, 1000 mg/day of B2, 1000 mg/day of Turmeric,1000 mg/day of Resveratrol, drinking 4 to 5 cups of green tea and eat lots of bananas. I was also prescribed Sumatriptan for use as needed. I experienced considerable pain and discomfort. Despite the situation, there were limited options, and my neurologist could only monitor my condition.

After approximately two months of rest, I regained my ability to walk. Yoga, acupuncture, and my supplement use played a pivotal role in my recovery. Initially, during my yoga practice, I would experience dizziness, but over time, these sensations diminished. Eventually, I received medical clearance to resume surfing, provided I wore a protective surf helmet. Now, even when the waves are modest, I faithfully wear the helmet. The combination of yoga, strength training, continued supplement use with moderate dosage, and the helmet when surfing has had a significant impact on my well-being. I continue to charge Sunset, albeit with caution. Despite enduring migraines, neck, and shoulder pain, I remain functional. The good news is the helmet prevents me from getting dazed and disoriented on hard-hitting wipeouts.

Understanding traumatic brain injury (TBI)

Swelling of the brain is a serious condition that can occur due to various reasons, including traumatic brain injury (TBI), ischemic strokes, and hemorrhagic strokes. A concussion is a type of TBI caused by a blow to the head or a violent shaking of the head and body. Symptoms of a concussion can range from mild to severe and can last for hours, days, weeks, or even months.

Common signs and symptoms of a concussion include:

  • A headache or a feeling of pressure in the head

  • Temporary loss of consciousness

  • Confusion or feeling as if in a fog

  • Memory loss surrounding the traumatic event

  • Dizziness

  • Ringing in the ears

  • Nausea

  • Vomiting

What happens to the brain during a concussion?

How did all the head poundings I endured over the years surfing, impact my brain physiology and health? Here’s what I’ve learned to date. My brain sits bathed in fluid to prevent shocks, perturbations (anxiety; mental uneasiness), and trauma, it does not like to be bounced around inside my skull. My Neurons are my brain cells that perform the majority of my information processing in my brain, while my other supportive cells are crucial for keeping my Neurons happy and running on all my cylinders. They are my role players. Astrocytes and Microglia are my key role players responsible for protecting my neurons from threats. They help them heal after injury and provide them with energy. In a healthy brain, the tiny astrocytes monitor the health and activity of the surrounding cells by creating a network of thin filaments, establishing a sort of surveillance system to ensure the brain avoids threats. When my brain was injured my cells went into overdrive, increasing in size and number to counter the threat and accelerate healing. My astrocytes and microglia enlarged, proliferated, and entangled themselves, not seen in a healthy brain.

It wasn’t the initial trauma of the hit I took that day surfing that caused the problems. It was the activation of a cascade of secondary reactions that kicked in during and after my head trauma. Iconic flux, disruption of cellular function, free radical damage, activation of microglia, chronic inflammation, derangement of blood flow, SNS and ANS dysfunction, and leaky blood-brain barrier. It was these secondary effects that were largely responsible for the systems I experienced post-concussion, such as migraines, positional vertical, fatigue, irritability, and ringing in my ears.

Treatment

Treatment for a concussion depends on the severity of your symptoms. Most concussions can be managed at home or with conservative medical approaches.

Here are some steps to aid recovery:

  • Over-the-counter pain relievers: Acetaminophen (Tylenol) can help alleviate headaches associated with a concussion. However, avoid nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory medications like ibuprofen (Advil) or aspirin, as they may increase the risk of brain bleeding.

  • Hydration: Concussions can cause nausea and vomiting, leading to dehydration. Ensure you drink plenty of water to stay hydrated.

  • Physical and mental rest: In the initial 48 hours after a concussion, allow your brain to recover through relative rest. While complete rest (such as lying in a dark room) is not recommended, limit activities that require intense concentration if they worsen your symptoms. Avoid vigorous physical exertion, sports, and activities that exacerbate your condition.

  • Remember that there is no specific medication for concussions, and hospital stays for observation are rarely necessary unless advised by a healthcare professional. If you experience severe symptoms or complications, seek medical attention promptly.

Surf Facts

Researchers have closely monitored concussions among surfers, due to the immense power pounded by waves on the body and head. Head and neck injuries are the most common type of surfing injury for surfers, accounting for 37% of all our surfing injuries. Most of these are superficial trauma or lacerations, but more severe injuries such as concussions represented 16% of injuries to the head and neck according to studies. It is suspected that the true incidence of concussions is somewhat higher because many surfers don’t recognize the symptoms and, don’t go to their doctor or hospital.

In a 56-month study of Hawaiian surfers in Oahu, 34% of injuries involved the head and the spine. In a study from the UK’s Royal Cornwall Hospital that tracked 212 surfing injuries, 32% involved the skull or spine.

Although some of these injuries are delivered by the surfboard itself, some 67% recorded were caused by a board, and 33% were caused by one’s board.

A study from Australia’s Royal Melbourne Hospital found that 17% of a year’s worth of surfing injuries related to hitting the ocean floor. The wave itself can also have some heavy consequences. The crest of a wave, when it begins to fall, is called the “lip.” When the lip collides with the head or neck, it can cause spinal and concussive injuries.

In the 1990s, some surf gear companies began offering lightweight helmets but they didn’t catch on. In an Australian study, only 12 of 646 surfers interviewed wore a helmet. Most of the surfers complained that the helmets restricted their surfing performance. They can also restrict peripheral visibility and cause neck strain. I don’t find that. The benefits far outweigh the criticism. I think many surfers refuse to wear a helmet because they feel it’s not cool.

Joseph Grassadonia

Joseph, a seasoned big wave rider with over 62 years of experience, is a well-respected publisher and editor based at Sunset Beach, Oahu. His lifelong passion for surfing has taken him to some of the most challenging waves around the globe, solidifying his reputation in the surfing community. Beyond his love for the ocean, Joseph is deeply committed to fitness and embraces an active lifestyle. When he's not catching waves or working on his latest editorial projects, he enjoys traveling to explore new cultures and surf spots. His dedication to both his craft and his passions continues to inspire those around him.

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